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Tartine ticks all the bistro boxes. Low lighting? Check. Dark tones? Yep. Long-time regulars, some speaking French, who order the same thing every time? You betcha. The undisputed star here is a gift from the sea gods: a sourdough disc heaped with delicate crab meat, fresh apple, chervil and crab emulsion.

But the tartines don’t end there. There’s brioche with sliced black fig and tangy chevre; and raclette on baguette with cornichons, crying out to be coupled with champagne from the impressive house collection or something from the long, French-dominated wine list

Steak frites, cheesy gnocchi Parisienne and hibachi-grilled kingfish or West Australian octopus broaden the menu, while desserts tread a traditional path. A borderline-bitter apple tarte tatin is a blissful note on which to fin.