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Palm fronds will wave, corks will pop, seafood platters will adorn tables: these are the laws of Stokehouse. There’s unhampered creativity, too, when the kitchen colours outside the lines.

Orange segments wink from under grilled flathead fillets, a burst of unconventional citrus that pairs well with sea urchin veloute and the tender fish whose skin rustles when cut. There’s just-set scallop mousse snuck into a firm round of steamed cod wrapped in daikon: the shellfish deepening and sweetening a dish made for diehard seafood fans.

Quail terrine is one of many fish-free dishes, while desserts as preppy as a twinset include a creamy choc-mint marquise whose contrasting colours wouldn’t right in on Derby Day. Extra touches from the floor team have everyone walking on sunshine, even if it’s not your birthday or anniversary. For big-deal meals, Stokehouse is safe as houses.