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Three years in, Chris Lucas’s glitzy fine diner is doing exactly what it was built to do. Icicle-like chandeliers, gauzy grey drapes and velvet banquettes create an oasis from the city below. The kitchen nails the lavish ingredients Society’s become known for.

A one-bite tart of prawn, blood orange and macadamia is a lovely opener. Steamed mud crab is mixed tableside with bonito consomme, ginger, lemongrass and coconut. Rib-eye with mustard jus needs nothing but a simple salad of gem lettuce, parmesan and soft eggs. Service is outstanding, and cocktails are clever (see: the walnut-honey Old Fashioned tempered with peated whisky).

Some bottles on the wine list are thrilling in their exclusivity, but there are smart choices at the lower end, too. Whether the goal is indulgence, celebration or pure sustenance, Society makes an impression.