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The makeover that brought a darker, more luxurious sensibility to MoVida’s corporate outpost was more akin to getting rid of a passé eyebrow piercing than selling out.

Aside from new curved banquettes and deep green and maroon tones, MoVida Aqui is ostensibly the same. It still dishes up exuberant tapas and raciones, such as crunchy-bottomed paella served in the traditional pan with seafood or (if you’re lucky) chicken heart and rabbit.

Brilliant little crumpets are stacked with crab meat, saffron mayo and finger lime. Charcoal chicken skewers powered by cumin and sweet paprika might be followed by deconstructed Basque cheesecake, the whipped fluffy star flanked by brown butter crumbs.

Essentials like quality jamon, a drinks list that loves Spain and Australia, and service as generous as the food show that Aqui’s growing up, not old.