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Park the DeLorean out front, because we’re going Back to the Future. Twenty years ago this South Yarra local sported two Good Food Guide hats and was named Restaurant of the Year. Now it’s once again keeping the neighbourhood happy, with a fitout as slick as the clientele.

An army of polite, well-schooled servers takes cue from the fine-dining playbook but the menu is pure upmarket pub. Fat pork schnitzel pairs with Japanese-style curry gravy, and rubble-edged calamari is scattered among vinegar-doused potatoes, pickled onions and capers. Smoky charred lettuce is a fitting adjunct to the glorious sear on an O’Connor porterhouse.

Ivory tablecloths, dry-ageing meat cabinets and a well-stocked wine shop only add to the appeal, as do gorgeous views to the gardens over the road. Great Scott? More like great Bot.