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This broodong restaurant fits right in to a town renowned for its food and wine. Owner-chef Matthew Carnell’s Francophile proclivities attract a keen local crowd as well as weekend interlopers lured by the certainties of champagne and perky oysters mignonette.

Pull up a bentwood chair for a leisurely parade of classics, from silken duck liver pâté with the jammy cut-through of quince, to textbook steak frites made with local Sher wagyu rump cap. Fat pillows of buttery pan-fried gnocchi balance the yin of braised greens with the yang of whipped goat’s curd.

Bring it home with toffee-capped creme brulee awaiting the satisfying crack of your spoon. The provincial charm of the red brick dining room contrasts with zigzags of futuristic strip lighting, while a tight band of waiters keep the show humming. This is a regional standby for good reason.