Exactly what is Australian food? You’ll struggle to find a more singular vision of it than at Attica.

A dish of King George whiting illustrates the point: raw slices fashioned into a map of Oz, topped with tiny mounds of native riberry and desert lime that pinpoint each state. Local ingredients are championed throughout. Just-set marron sings sweetly against finger lime in a racy white wine sauce.

A novelty skewer crowned with a miniature kangaroo holds grilled roo daubed with mountain pepper marinade; a nod to Indonesian satay and pre-colonial trade. The mini pie floater is a playful deviation from fine-dining norms, eaten in a makeshift pub out back while watching footy on a VHS.

Inspired wine matches and buttoned-up service enhance an experience that doubles as a lesson for pupil-diners about Australian food today.