Nathan Darling's pretty, romantic food does its best to claim your attention, but all eyes at this exceptional harbourside site are drawn to the largest, widest, steel-arch bridge in the world - so close, it's almost like seeing it in 3D. All that water suggests seafood - and yes, there are oysters, but also pleasingly pink Crystal Bay prawns in a delicate tomato confit spiked with saffron, gentle gnocchi and shreds of snow crab lurking beneath. Red wine lovers never fear, there is also Cape Grim rib-eye or a meaty, well-flavoured duck breast on black lentils with chorizo. Shipshape staff keep everything sailing smoothly in the glossy, smartly furnished room, with just a hint of a go-slow between courses on a busy night. But by the time you're sharing a gingerbread pudding tropically matched with caramelised pineapple, the lights are low, the city is lit in neon and almost all the couples (bar the business colleagues, of course) are holding hands.