'Respect thy produce' is Jeff Turnbull's motto. And he does his ingredients proud, serving assured mod-bistro fare to an appreciative neighbourhood crowd. Friendly, efficient staff negotiate tightly packed tables, bearing 'HSB tasting plates' (perhaps a salmon tartare topped with a mini-quenelle of avocado cream, a fat scallop on a cube of melting pork belly, plus a crisp, crab-stuffed zucchini flower), or entrees such as crisp-fried soft-shell crab draped over a salty, lemony slaw of brussels sprout leaves. Mains veer from a pitch-perfect chargrilled beef tenderloin with monolithic, twice-cooked chips and a massive dollop of good bearnaise to rare duck breast with classic bigarade (bitter orange) sauce, cavolo nero and velvety parsnip puree. Dessert is de rigueur. an 'orgy of summer berries' (a champagne-spiked 'mess') is the people's choice, but an elegant dark chocolate and salted caramel tart with creme fraiche and 'smashed raspberries' is a quiet achiever.