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“Don’t play with your food”? That’s all they do at Yellow, giving roots, leaves and cucurbits the main-character energy they deserve.

On any given weeknight, you’ll find this cosy vegan restaurant quietly humming with couples, friends and celebrations.

Locally sourced heirloom vegetables are celebrated across a precise seasonal six-course tasting menu, from semi-dried cherry tomatoes atop baba ganoush to the smokiest roasted carrot, contrasted against fresh hazelnut and a black garlic emulsion.

Cunning lookalike dishes might cause a double-take – is that kingfish? Nope, it’s cured eggplant cleverly draped with slivers of pickled red onion. While braised leek wrapped in nori with young garlic is fashioned to look exactly like a cross-section of a garlic head.

It’s clever, but rarely too much for its own good, the whole show enhanced by a terrific drinks list high on vegan wines, as well as considered non-alcoholic choices. Eat your vegies? Yes please.