Shelter Lennox
Elevated dining as refreshing and colourful as the coastal views.
14.5/20
Contemporary$$
With the bi-folds open to a view across Lennox Head Beach, Shelter could simply phone it in with gussied-up pub meals and still be a prime spot. But chef Cameron Irving has seemingly taken this as a challenge, cooking food as vibrant as the surroundings.
Braised and then hibachi-grilled octopus packs a lovely crunch and pops with chilli and crisped garlic, while raw long-tail tuna spiked with lime leaf and salsa verde is an artful revelation when served beneath a blanket of baby cucumber.
Chargrilled swordfish is the pick of the main courses, the fish clean and tender, a smoked-dashi beurre blanc adding elegance and savoury richness. Coconut-yoghurt sorbet with Granny Smith apple to finish is a touch sweet, but hardly worth dwelling on in such a lovely space with warm hospitality and an all-Australian wine list.
Continue this series
Northern RiversUp next
Three Blue Ducks
Farm-to-plate hinterland paradise.
You Beauty
Local produce presented in an Australian-themed bolthole.
Previous
The Salty Mangrove
Green and breezy all-rounder just north of Brunswick Heads.
From our partners
Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/shelter-lennox-20241103-p5knhy.html