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This glitzy playground of marble, metals and dark wood is a proper restaurant in the way they used to make ’em. You know, fine stemware, gueridon service (check the tableside filleting on butter-glossed whole flounder with curry leaf), a deep menu and real sense of place.

While new chef Brad Guest’s cooking looks to the Mediterranean, it also feels wholly Sydney. Where else might you eat lobster agnolotti, beautifully sea-sweet and finished with tiny curls of squid and a well-behaved Geraldton wax oil?

Just-tender abalone is threaded with shiitake and supercharged by chicken fat, prawn-stock risotto is topped with five small, sweet sashimi-grade prawns, and there are four coal-grilled steak options if you’re keen to get stuck into the prestige reds. Sommeliers always show the bottle at the table too, no matter the price of your by-the-glass pour. Indeed, a proper restaurant.