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With a stunning location and a decades-long history of serving fine Italian food to a who’s-who of Sydney business, fashion and media, it would be easy for Otto to take its eye off the ball. But this harbourside institution, rocking a menu of Italian classics and a wide-ranging wine list, still remains one of the best lunch spots in town.

Linguine studded generously with Moreton Bay bug – a dish that’s unlikely ever to leave the menu – is perfectly al dente. Mushroom tart sees delightfully crumbly pastry filled with buttery mushrooms and chestnuts, the richness cut by sorrel. Pleasingly springy John dory sits on a dill sauce that is creamy without being cloying, tiny florets of cauliflower adding texture.

The paparazzi of old may have moved on, but gazing over the water with a crisp Alto Adige pinot grigio in hand, Otto still feels like the place to be.