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There’s not much this handsome Victorian terrace in the middle of Glebe can’t do. Weddings. Bottomless-brunch bridal parties. A summer afternoon aperitivo in the courtyard. The menu rises to most occasions too, melding Mexican cuisine with Asian and local ingredients.

Fried chicken glazed in a sticky black-vinegar reduction, say, with habanero mayonnaise and shichimi togarashi for heat. Scallops with piquin chilli brown butter are enhanced with the unmistakable fragrance of curry leaves, while butter-glossed spaghetti (Italy gets a nod, too) features a rubble of pork and fennel sausage with diced radicchio to hone the fat.

A two-hour innings in the white-on-cloud-grey dining room isn’t essential either. Two snapper tostadas with a glass of orange wine can be just as satisfying as a full bottle of Spanish red and dry-aged sirloin, bolstered with the might of black-garlic jus.