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An American couple at the next table visit Ezra whenever they’re in Sydney, they say, and every time they’re greeted like family.

It’s a place where warmth and generosity prevail: wines, even by the glass, are proffered for tasting; and portions are hearty, with pickles and dips forming the basis of a vibrant, share-friendly menu that draws from, then expands on, Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine.

Begin with a couple of “Gilda Radners”, which successfully use house-cured lox instead of anchovies, then follow with beautifully textured ikra, the whipped cod roe and eggplant dip served with fluffy pita or a Jerusalem bagel to tear and swipe through.

Potato kugel is pure comfort, barramundi with smoked labne and pistachio tahini is rich and delicate, and you don’t need to have heard of a Golden Gaytime to love the baklava ice-cream sandwich, which twists the classic in new, wild directions. One for locals and out-of-towners alike.