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The upstairs restaurant in the much loved Cricketers Arms Hotel hasn’t quite gone posh – the pub’s jovial energy easily ascends its wooden staircase. But what’s on the plate is certainly slicker than your average old boozer.

Take the savoury tarte tatin featuring umami-packed roasted tomatoes on a bed of puff pastry, with fines herbes, fried goat’s cheese and a cap of foamed chevre sabayon bringing delightful balance. Or juicy roast chook, glazed in red wine gastrique and dressed with plenty of jus gras set for mopping with standout A.P Bakery sourdough. Staff are knowledgeable and warm, readily recommending favourites from the carte.

Wine is good value, with a lean to the lo-fi, while the terrine pâté a la Cricketers Arms – duck, pork, fruit and nuts encased in buttery pastry – is a luscious mix of rustic and elevated. Or, in other words, a little bit Crix and a little bit Chez, all at once.