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In 2010, when Bloodwood first opened, it was one of the only restaurants of its ilk among the bifurcating strips of south King Street and Enmore Road. Fifteen years on, the area is populated with many serious dining venues – and, among this rarified and varied spread, the restaurant still holds its own.

Owner-chef Claire Van Vuuren’s chickpea pancake remains a knockout, its crisp edges cradling peperonata, swoops of green goddess and bright nubs of feta. The sharpness of the beef tartare, piled on a swirl of quince, makes for perfect pairing with a glass of skin-contact wine, while chewy fregola is a pleasure to eat with peppery quarters of globe artichoke.

In the astonishing Bloodwood trifle, an amalgam of cake and champagne anglaise, port-wine jelly and mascarpone is bold and memorable. Much like Bloodwood itself.