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Something excellent is afoot when you can walk into a neighbourhood Italian in Gordon and see negronis lined up at the bar and mushroom arancini on every table. As locals themselves, Taran and Elizabeth Tamana knew what the area was missing, and this is it.

A smart, stool-lined cocktail bar leads to a busy open kitchen and gorgeous wood-fired oven, which head chef Francesco Iervolino deploys not only for the puffy, wood-fired breads (team them with nutty prosciutto San Daniele), but also the nicely charred wagyu topside and a mighty one-kilogram bistecca alla Fiorentina.

Pasta is made in-house and changes seasonally, apart from an al dente rigatoni all’amatriciana that’s a firm local favourite.

Of course there is tiramisu, sweetly served from a tray, or available as a tiramisu martini with its own savoiardi biscuit – the dessert alternative you didn’t know you were missing.