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From star-shaped pastries dusted in cinnamon sugar to true-to-tradition Cornish pasties, and loaves made with a rye sourdough starter, Bobby’s is a strong debut for a baker with Lune and Wild Life cred.

The secret to Bobby’s sellout pasties is animal fat – specifically beef suet (the fat from around the cow’s kidneys and loins), minced by a local butcher. The thick, burnished-bottomed pastry is certainly sturdy, but a pleasant flake factor remains, even on the crimp. And the flavour? Deeply savoury and satisfyingly salty.

The filling starts with high-quality beef skirt, cubed and generously seasoned with salt and black pepper. Vegetable-wise, baker Sam Iversen uses only potato, swede and onion – a Cornish Pasty Association requirement. Veg and beef hit the pastry raw, with a knob of butter.