The quest to secure a spot in the city's favourite no-res venues can be one of adventure or pure frustration but there's no call for despondency when you can tide yourself over with a cosy window seat and a racy little splash of something. After seven years, it's clear that much of Lourinha's merit comes down to great staff, unerring consistency and enduring Iberian-boho charm. Chef Matt McConnell's food continues to sing and the now legendary kingfish 'pancetta' - creamy textured wafers of fish glistening with fragrant lemon oil - could alone inspire a dozen Portuguese fados. Specials such as oozy, whole burrata with sweet-sour pickled zucchini ribbons are a study in elegant simplicity, while others, like peasanty, cumin-spiced chicken and black-eyed bean stew radiate hearty comfort. Service is equal parts savvy and informal, the wines unfailingly interesting and the vibe warm and genial. Undoubtedly still worth the wait.