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There’s a whiff of woodsmoke and old money at this ever-evolving peninsula winery. Its fine-dining restaurant bestows daytime diners with spectacular vineyard views; at night, the vibe is moodier, each well-spaced table an intimate bubble of light.

All around, staff adroitly refold napkins, suggest apt wine matches from a wondrous list, and present dishes – often with a flourish of sauce or broth poured tableside. A semi-open kitchen fuelled by fire creates compositions of many elements.

The opening volley might be a fragile pastry case cradling smoked trout cream glinting with salmon roe; plump marron heaped crumpets cast among pebbles; and cockerel liver parfait wearing a madeira jelly cloak.

The rest of the cockerel, cooked several ways, arrives a few courses later on a plate daubed with pumpkin puree, tarragon emulsion and shiitake gel – like an abstract expressionist’s Sunday roast.