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Lakes Entrance, Fish Creek, Warragul, Maffra: familiar names accompany every dish that lands on these solid timber tables. The first-floor dining room is trimmed with lush carpet and curvy banquettes, and whether you’re here for the degustation dinner or a lunch of two or three courses, you’ll start with soda bread slathered in cultured butter and Tambo Valley honey.

Noojee rainbow trout pairs with mussels in a broth inspired by Assam laksa. Rosy lamb loin on lemon veloute is joined by gently warmed cucumber, fantastically fresh and totally surprising. Adroit staff in eucalyptus-green aprons are well acquainted with the drinks list, which roams through Gippsland all the way to the Old World.

Wines from Leongatha, including an extravagant array of Bass Phillip back vintages, make an inviting case for staying on theme throughout this ode to Victoria’s abundant east.