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Brown Brothers Restaurant

“Waste not” feels easy when the cooking’s this inspired.

There’s a seasonal set menu of 9 courses.
1 / 3There’s a seasonal set menu of 9 courses.Supplied
Brown Brothers Restaurant.
2 / 3Brown Brothers Restaurant.Supplied
The menu uses produce from the kitchen garden.
3 / 3The menu uses produce from the kitchen garden.Phoebe Powell.

Good Food hat15.5/20

Contemporary$$

A keen palate and a quest to use everything provided by the kitchen’s vast vegetable plot are hallmarks of chef Bodee Price’s inventive feasts.

Delivered in full view of lush lawns, they begin with just-picked nasturtium leaves for wrapping around pickled zucchini and cured rainbow trout. Garden fennel speckles house-cured salami. A jumble of diced pumpkin and pepitas are cupped by a dainty tart made of sourdough starter. That all this is happening at one of Australia’s oldest family wineries only dials up the excitement.

Pale green fennel puree is joined by slaw and pickled garlic scapes to brighten slabs of Western Plains pork. Between this and the horseradish-spiked flank steak, the bronzed Milawa chicken breast and the chilli-flecked pipis you’ll need to bring a country appetite – or accept an offer to parcel up remaining dishes. Who could let such goodness go to waste?

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/brown-brothers-restaurant-20240522-p5jfnp.html