First impressions suggest the bare wall at the back of this understated, creamy-coloured restaurant needs an artwork. The focus here, though, is on the art of intelligent, smiling service and food that’s as captivating to look at as it is to eat. Chef Chris Thornton does an impressive job, whether with a salad of beetroot, radish, garden peas and house-made ricotta - a dazzling botanic take on crown jewels - or a shipwreck (in a good way) of braised octopus finely sliced and laid across the plate, topped with fried whitebait and gnarled, crunchy squid ink crackers. Flavours weren’t as punchy as hoped for in Szechuan peppered wagyu with king brown mushrooms and black bean, but a Shiro Kin wagyu rump cap is irresistibly tender and juicy. Caramelised apple and raisin parfait with yoghurt sorbet and compressed green apple continues the edible art theme. Leave the wall bare, we say.

And … Mason also has a cafe and catering services.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Subtle, special occasion.
Best bit Classy but comfortable.
Worst bit A side of triple-cooked chips might be over-ordering.