Merivale’s mighty Chinese flagship carries echoes of its nightclub past, from the vast two-storied space to the glammed-up hopefuls queuing for a table. There are separate open kitchens for dim sum and roast meats, and an impressive glass case presenting roast duck as performance art. The menu at this no-expense-spared Cantonese temple might seem daunting but polished staff guide the way. Start with dim sum, including exquisite siu mai with scallops and flying fish roe. Head onto salads, where fried nublets of beef tongue mix beautifully with pickled celery and greens. Swing past the wok-licked rice noodles with fat pieces of crab, leek and bean shoots, and take in some finger-lickin’ poultry, such as crisp-skinned chicken with spicy salt. Maximise the experience by dining with a group (and bypass the no bookings for fewer than six rule). But keep the silken-textured mango pudding to yourself.

And … There’s an excellent bar as well.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Glam Chinese nightclub, but with real food.
Best bit A tie between food, service and people-watching.
Worst bit Getting in.