1. Warm the oil in a large, deep, lidded frying pan over a medium heat. Gently fry the fennel with the parsley stalks, chilli and a pinch of salt, stirring occasionally, for 4-5 minutes or until the fennel has softened. Add the garlic, tomatoes, marjoram or oregano and cook until the tomatoes have collapsed and the garlic is soft, about 3-4 minutes. Increase the heat to high and pour in the wine, letting it simmer for a minute. Add the water. Simmer for 2-3 minutes or until slightly reduced.

2. Nestle in the mussels, cover with a lid and cook for 2 minutes. Add the prawns and calamari and cook for a further minute. Gently add the snapper and cook for 2-3 more minutes or until the seafood is cooked and the mussels are open (discard any that remain closed).

3. Scatter with the chopped parsley and reserved fennel fronds. Serve with plenty of grilled bread drizzled with olive oil, and the cooked fregola, spooned into the bottom of each bowl, if using.

Tip: While I often cook a whole snapper this way, I also love poaching a mixture of seafood: here, I've used mussels, prawns, calamari and snapper fillets, but feel free to use whatever seafood you prefer. Other fish, such as John Dory or sea bream, can be used instead of the snapper.

*a small Sardinian semolina pasta rolled by hand and toasted.