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Dinner at The Gidley begins with finding the unmarked door, pressing the buzzer and descending to the basement where you are politely but firmly asked to hand over your phone. And thus, the ritual of the rib-eye begins.

The velvet-heavy booths in this underground shrine to meat are pure New York City steakhouse, while the service has all the pomp you would expect. Original? Not really. But that doesn’t make the Gidley burger, sliced in two by a white-gloved waiter, any less impressive.

Then there’s the main event: various cuts of Riverine rib-eye, from boneless chop to the quite extraordinary spinalis. A side of “shake shake” fries with pickle and chive salt brings interest, mac-and-cheese brings comfort, while a red-leaning wine list hits hard without fetishing the Old World.

There’s jerk-spiced squid and chicken-fat oysters too, but if you’re not doing beef here, did you even Gidley?