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There’s no shortage of top-shelf sushi in Sydney, but if you prefer your sashimi on the sultrier side, matched with Louis Roederer in an intimate, low-lit dining room, this celebrated favourite at The Star delivers.

Executive chef Daniel Kwak may have taken the reins from founding chef Chase Kojima, but the artistry and commitment to pristine produce remains right across the pick-n-mix neo-Japanese menu. See, mini sandos featuring spanner-crab quenelles atop nori mayo and crisp toasts; whisper light batter on fat tempura prawns; and plump chicken-thigh yakitori and yasai-zuke lamb cutlets from the binchotan grill.

Fan favourites of wagyu steaks and miso-glazed toothfish star alongside signature nigiri and sashimi, such as kingfish dotted with yuzu kosho. Desserts are elite, the wine and sake list, tomelike. Guaranteed good times, and that goes double if you manage to nab an omakase booking.