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With Pilot’s younger sibling Such and Such perennially pumping in Canberra’s CBD, there was a small concern the original would be set to, well, autopilot. Not so. It’s still one of the most singular restaurants in the country, thanks largely to chef Malcolm Hanslow’s tasting menus of striking but satisfying deliciousness.

Mal’s Snack Pack features four cutlery optional creations including scooped piel de sapo, the melon filled with refreshing jasmine tea and elderflower jelly, and a “fish and chips” of mackerel skin crackers and herby potato dip.

Sri Lanka gets a nod with green mango curry generously topped with hand-picked mud crab, and ruddy swatches of wagyu are bolstered by barbecued tomato butter.

In short: fun! Have a Cherry Ripe bomboloni to take home. Add clever wine pairings, a soundtrack heavy on early Silverchair, and polished interiors framed by wildflowers and an open kitchen, and it’s a smooth ride all the way.