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The term “New York-style” is thrown around a lot these days, but gosh darn it, if a seat at the heaving bar of this high-ceilinged trattoria doesn’t feel a bit like knocking back negronis at Manhattan’s Gramercy Tavern. Chatty staff, stiff drinks, bare floorboards and honeyed lighting; house-made ham and anchovy hot sauce. We’re sold.

Best book a marble-topped table if you really want to get across the pasta and big Italian share plates, though. With the wine boffins from Love Tilly Group at the helm, everything is marvellously booze-friendly, such as robust trippa alla Romana kicked up with ’nduja, or the rich mussel and black garlic ragu, clinging to spaghetti alla chitarra.

A Tathra Place pork chop is as juicy as they come, ruddy flat-iron steak is made even beefier with veal jus, and the double-baked torta della nonna might even give a slice of SoHo cheesecake a run for its money.