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Ceviche. Leche de tigre. Anticucho. How well do you know your Peruvian classics? Alejandro Saravia is as fluent as it gets, the Peruvian having first opened a South American restaurant in Sydney in 2011. This time ’round, the chef has the majesty of the heritage-listed GPO building as his stage.

Goldband snapper ceviche is a blast of lime, ginger and chilli, accented with cubes of sweet potato and roasted corn kernels (be sure to toss it first). Grill-crisped ox-tongue skewers get a beautifully emulsified carretillera sauce bright with sundried Andean chillies, and white corn plays a big role – in snacky arepas and as a lush puree underpinning brined chicken.

Morena captures the playful spirit and hospitality of Latin America, right through to a delicate coconut sponge with coconut cream and dulce de leche, capped with a wafer-like oblea.