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What was an elegant city wine bar from Bentley Group has gone the full Gallic, reinventing itself with white linen tablecloths, candlelight and a menu of classic French. We’re talking smoked eel millefeuille, pot au feu of beef brisket, quenelles de poisson, and duck à l’orange, thank you very much.

This is no great stretch for Brent Savage, who classically trained in the French style under talents such as Jeremy Strode and Mark Best, or indeed, for co-owner Nick Hildebrandt, who happily indulges his passion for all things Cotes du Rhone and Chartreuse.

In true French spirit, the food is rich but light, whether it’s an elegant wedge of pâté de foie de canard iced with a gelee of rosé, or a pillowy baba sponge with the rum swapped out for Calvados. Monopole, bienvenu.