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“Sydney should have more places like this,” says a guy in the lift. Correct. Harbour view restaurants have stepped up across town, but the ones up in the sky? Not so much. Thank goodness, then, for Kiln. High above the Ace Hotel foyer, there are city lights, DJs spinning vinyl and all sorts of wood-flamed deliciousness hopping between the Mediterranean and Asia.

Expect lots of small plates and more than your usual quantity of vegetables, such as blackened poblano peppers for swiping up tarama, gorgeously grilled calamari with shiso enhanced salmoriglio, smoky caper-spangled greens and roasted eggplant with the crunch of macadamias and curry leaves.

Decor is concrete and bricky, textured with cosy fabrics, and the descriptive wine list spruiks plenty of fun stuff by the glass. An “intriguing and powerful red”, anyone? Yes please, with the slab of dry-aged rib-eye. It’s not only vegetables on the 18th floor.