Hotel Centennial

Beautifully precise cooking amid eastern suburbs elan.

November 11, 2024

1 / 7Roasted duck for two.Christopher Pearce

2 / 7The sun-drenched dining room.supplied

5 / 7Almond and coffee opera cake.Christopher Pearce

6 / 7Pork pâté de campagne.Christopher Pearce

7 / 7The light-filled dining room.Supplied.

15/20

European$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

The immaculate nude linen. The rotating Olsen Gallery artworks. The sculptural foliage dotted about the sun-drenched dining room. If you don’t live in a lavish home in the eastern suburbs, Hotel Centennial is a great place to play make believe

And with longstanding Merivale chef Ben Greeno calling the shots, a roaring wood oven, expertly poured wine, elegant touches like terrine sliced tableside and just-warm brown butter cake splashed with whisky? Well, why not. On Sundays, a whole side of rib-roast beef is displayed proudly by the kitchen, ready for Yorkies and other pristine seasonal trimmings.

“Today’s offal dish”, meanwhile, might see veal tongue braised overnight, seared and splashed with a black truffle vinaigrette; a plate of blistered zucchini – prepared alla scapece and flush with ricotta, plump white anchovies and chilli oil – standing by. All class.