Despite the name and address, this isn’t fish and chips wrapped in yesterday’s news by the beach. The brutalist concrete diner is a relaxed place to lose yourself in good company with a bottle of orange wine and a menu of fresh seafood.

Calamari, to start, is nicely whacked with fermented chilli and parsley, while more substantial highlights include tender barramundi with perfectly crisp skin, and a meaty fillet of snapper with your choice of punchy salsa verde, house-made tartare, or divinely sweet, slow-cooked cherry tomatoes.

Sides deserve their own spotlight: roast cauliflower is coated in earthy-bitter tahini and balanced by raisins and bright herbs; dukkah and dill are mixed through a colourful cabbage slaw.

By night the dining room edges towards the intimate and upmarket, while weekend lunches are made for tuna cheeseburgers, sandwiches and yes, fish and chips, too.