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On a cold and rainy night, the glow of this back-lane wine bar beckons. A sommelier holds court and pours left-field drops for a small group of friends. Date-night couples take up the sought-after window seats.

“A place for wine and things to eat” is the humble premise, which might translate to Arbois chardonnay and puffed brioche covered in gossamer-thin dill pickles and anchovies, or bronzed pumpkin and sage croquettes bedded with spiced aioli.

Jack’s Creek striploin arrives comme il faut, meltingly soft and glistening under jus and butter; pappardelle is a balancing act of cream and crunch, with king oyster and porcini mushrooms tangled through herbs and ricotta.

Meanwhile, solo diners can be just as happy with their nose in a good book and a dry martini, umami-boosted fries on the side. Plus, as we go to press, new chef Samuel Rozsnyoi (ex-Cafe Paci) is bringing a Hungarian edge to the menu. Watch this space.