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It’s good news when the neighbourhood wine bar starts getting as serious about food as it is about booze.

CWR owners Thomas Hardwick and Michelle Morales have lined the walk-in wine room with classic bottles (big on nebbiolo), overseen by sommelier Chris Ihm, while the kitchen upgrade sees chef Ken Yong move in following stints at Oncore by Clare Smyth and Petermen.

It’s relaxed dining, whether you’re snacking on crisp cubes of potato rosti or slicing into a good steak. And even those who think chicken is too safe an order can go for the nicely crafted ballotine, fringed with stuffing on a puddle of comte and rainbow chard.

A board of cheese is tempting – if only as bait to see the wine list again – but then there’s also the Basque cheesecake cooling in full view on the kitchen counter.