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As the numerous restaurants on Enmore Road jostle for attention, Colombo Social quietly produces complex, spiced curries and crisp-edged hoppers, and upholds a social mission to boot.

Chefs from refugee backgrounds are on the pans, sending out terrific market fish marinated in a 13-spice powder, creamy dhal cooked to a family recipe and sell-out goat curry with toasted coconut.

A clever combination of borrowed and traditional ingredients means sizzling, stretchy saganaki is drizzled with kithul (jaggery palm) treacle, kingfish ceviche is cured with curry powder and roti “tacos” are stuffed with soft-shell crab.

The buzzy honey-toned room is stacked with terracotta pots, cocktails are suitably fruity and the tight wine list features plenty of Australian drops.

Keen to do more good with your dinner? Order a set menu and two meals are donated to people in need, one in Sydney, the other in Sri Lanka.