First, the rules, which are displayed in the bathrooms so there’s no doubt. No mobile phones.

Steak is cooked medium-rare. House wine is poured in tumblers and martinis served cold, dry and strong. Oh, and leave your troubles outside – the only bitterness can be in your glass. Nail these and you’re in for a treat.

The drab alley door is in inverse proportion to the delights on offer inside the intimate, underground dining room where negronis on tap and pecorino drizzled with honey and truffles are warm-up acts to the main show.

Drawing all eyes is the brick-lined hearth, which generates light and heat, and hulking slabs of bistecca alla Fiorentina. Cut and cooked to order over charcoal and wood, then seasoned simply with salt, pepper and olive oil, each hunk is big, smoky and beautifully tender, and reason enough to live life by the rules.