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If you want to drink wine in Crows Nest, this brick and timber-framed split-level stayer is the place.

Young Burgundies share cellar space with grippy Italian reds, not to mention plenty of NSW drops and at least three dozen bottles available by the glass. (Although, it sure would be nice to see those bottles poured at the table.)

Most dishes from the a la carte menu are suitably wine-friendly too, such as wagyu rump cap, sticky with a well-poised pepper sauce, and smoky-sweet barbecued pork neck with green-tomato jam. Anyone for more shiraz?

Ricotta gnocchi is flavoured with brown butter and blitzed pumpkin, plus a few flecks of spanner crab, while sourdough gelato stars in a dessert also featuring stewed persimmon, creme fraiche and white-chocolate rubble.

Finish with a nicely balanced Old Fashioned, and consider returning for one of the special event themed wine-matching dinners.