From its marble floors to its ornate chandeliers and russet velvet banquettes, Rosetta shimmers with Old World opulence. Neil Perry’s third restaurant at Crown is a grand statement of excess, a place the A-list goes to be seen and cosseted by smooth waitstaff and a seductive Italianate wine list. Perry’s produce-driven sensibility is the foundation of deceptively simple, perfectly executed Italian cucina. From gutsy beef carpaccio with confit garlic and a blizzard of parmesan to a jumble of wood-grilled seafood singing of the ocean; from the levitatingly light gnocchi with braised rabbit and green olives – one of a dozen pastas made in-house – to the rustic kick of pork sausages with roasted pumpkin and walnut-sage salsa, it captures the beating heart of one of the world’s great cuisines, although a fat puff of apple and raspberry strudel strays deliciously from the theme. Make no mistake, Rosetta is expensive, but it makes a great case for any occasion demanding the grand statement.

And … The amazing ricotta is made in-house daily.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Rat Pack time machine.
Best bit Old World opulence.
Worst bit It's not cheap.