The prospect of a long lunch at Donovans – a slice of Cape Cod on St Kilda beach – can’t help but inspire the diner to put on her brightest Lilly Pulitzer or his favourite Nantucket Reds. Decorated with coloured cushions, magazine-level furnishings and – crucially – inevitably happy diners, Donovans is more than a reliable Melbourne pleasure: it’s reliable Melbourne bliss. The food tends towards high-end, impeccably executed (though highly priced) comfort food, exemplified by an entree of seared Hervey Bay scallops, truffled cream and potato crisps over which is poured a white asparagus soup of perfect consistency: it feels like first class. Herbal and spice notes are used tastefully: saffron and dill for a risotto with Queensland tiger prawns, yellow peppers and lime; classic tarragon for Donovans’ signature chicken pie. Among desserts, bombe Alaska is a showstopper: a meringue porcupine with hazelnut and chocolate ice-cream on a chocolate biscuit base. Service is impeccable.

And … Arriving early for a fireside drink is always a good idea.