As sought-after as a ticket to the Birdcage in spring and as comfy as a cashmere jumper, a beachside window seat at Donovans remains one of Melbourne's reliable pleasures. Cushioned wicker chairs, ample lounges and beachy homewares keep the mood simultaneously casual and luxe. Celebrating families, suited business folk and sun-kissed tourists sit at wooden tables dressed with white napkins, and order from a menu of modern classics priced at the upper end of the register. Spruce staff deliver giant prawns grilled in the shell, and creamy chicken pie served at the table in the inverted pastry lid. Delicate squid might arrive with herb stuffing and a dainty sage-anchovy fritter; tender bug meat nuggets tossed with cavatelli pasta might be overshadowed by rich bisque sauce. For dessert, satiny passionfruit creme brulee with berries almost warrants bypassing the near-legendary bombe.