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Give me a pub in the High Country, with lots of charm please, a fire or two in the dining room, a poolroom out the back and a verandah out the front. Tanswell’s ticks all the country pub boxes, but the menu is anything but typical. Wild meats are a focus, whether peppery venison terrine or a clever pork pie making the most of wild boar.

There’s comforting fare, too. Spread your table with share-friendly mint-green plates loaded with pinwheels of porchetta, shattering crackling, celeriac purée and smoky prunes, or fish beer-battered with local Stanley Lager, while interesting sides include fried pumpkin with fluffy hollandaise and hazelnut-chilli crunch.

With its green-but-keen floor staff, locals-only wine list, live music and regular chef takeovers, this hotel has loads of heart and a few tricks big-city establishments could embrace.