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Malls across Melbourne harbour some of the city’s best eats, but Footscray might boast the highest tally of them all. Case in point: Bun Cha Co Dao, a modest spot for fire-fragrant Vietnamese broths and more.

Bo la lot, the lemongrass-heavy beef and betel leaf rolls, spend ample time over the grill, each chubby little baton receiving a hit of smoke. It’s not just snacks getting the chargrill treatment. Pork neck, belly and patties are licked by flames before topping bowls of funky soup and vermicelli noodles.

Got a case of post-meal meat sweats? Opt for a frosty soursop smoothie or freshly squeezed orange juice. The lunch trade is roaring, so those looking to relax into their bun mam (the fermented fish broth with roast pork and eggplant) might favour an evening seating.