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At Rocket Kulfi, an open-air verandah stall, $5 will get you a rocket-shaped stick of ice-cream, made by reducing milk slowly then infusing it with the heavily reduced, caramelised cream known as khoya or mawa. There’s a distinct hit of cardamom, with flavours such as saffron or almond, pistachio and cashew taking top billing. If you’re not crossing the road for one of these, you’re doing it wrong.