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Brewing tea, brewing coffee, brewing dashi. The mastery of each skill at Tento makes it one of Sydney’s most singular operations, but it’s the little things that up the ante. Bittersweet black-sesame lattes served in their own handmade ceramics. Sake and chilled reds offered alongside long-simmered ramen. Cold brew? Espresso? Pitch perfect. Then there’s the ochazuke list, packing brothy rice, add-ons and all-out comfort, whatever the time of day.

Must-order dish: Ochazuke setto with house-made tofu, eggplant katsu and pickles.