You’d be forgiven for thinking that Rockpool-trained Nathan Sasi is a bit of a control freak. Not only does he dry corn for polenta, smoke peppers for paprika and bake his own bread, but he also makes all the charcuterie and cheeses on view in the handsome, temperature-controlled maturing cabinet. The supple, subtle mortadella is the real deal, as is his gamey wallaby salami; and warmed, crusty Jersey milk haloumi is a must-order. At the epicentre of this vast industrialised space is a wide-open kitchen (sit up at the counter) where a gun team grills skewers of smoky wagyu tongue, roasts slabs of sweet, garlic-infused pork and plates up golden empanadas filled with pork shank and shoulder. Even the mulberries in the meringue and goat yoghurt sorbet dessert come from a tree in the same street; the epitome of eating locally.

And … Regular meet-the-winemaker tastings for the full cellar-door thing.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Surry Hills industrial chic.
Best bit The full DIY mentality.
Worst bit Hard-to-read small-print menu.