A tractor is this winery's mascot, but rural rusticity is left at the door. The bar, with an open fire in winter, beckons. Then a dining area, immaculate as a designer penthouse, but relaxed, with its varnished timber, big windows and rolling vineyard view. Chef Stuart Bell's seasonal menus draw on a kitchen garden and organic local growers for dishes like a brilliant vegetarian entree - roasted corn, silken tofu, witlof and rosemary oil with satiny sweetcorn veloute poured at table. Cape Grim eye fillet accompanies slow-braised beef cheek, with parsnip and horseradish, and onion with red wine jus. Hapuku arrives parmesan-crusted on cauliflower puree with baby leeks, enoki mushrooms and chive-and-chardonnay sauce. Main Ridge pears come several ways in one dessert - caramelised, folded through pear mousse, as pear cannoli - with ginger and champagne jelly and popcorn icecream. Like many dishes, it's a visual and culinary composition. This modernistic temple to wine and food is well worth a pilgrimage.