Some restaurants just get it. They get that the parts are vital to the sum. quality produce, clever cooking, a smart location, great service and an on-trend fitout. Masons of Bendigo gets it. It's very now, but has its own personality and eschews slavish trend chasing. The menu is for sharing, of course. Start small with a trio of herb-flecked, dense Moreton Bay bug and chicken siu mai, a luxe quail terrine or kataifi-wrapped lamb and pinenut cigars. Deep-fried chicken ribs are popular but may be a little floury. Far better is a gorgeous black fig with whipped blue cheese, pomegranate and the crunch of toasted quinoa - a paean to perfect seasonal produce. Larger dishes proudly tout the restaurant's admirable relationships with their suppliers, none better than Seven Hills spit-roasted shoulder of goat with mixed grain salad and super-fine eggplant crisps. Banana and passionfruit sorbet with golden honeycomb is a sweet and pretty final thrill.